


SEVILLE, SPAIN
We spent 3 nights in Seville in March/April 2007 and thoroughly enjoyed it.
Seville is Spain's fourth largest city, located in Andalucia in the south
of Spain. The pedestrianised old centre is very picturesque with narrow winding
streets, orange trees, pretty buildings and a large selection of tapas bars,
cafes and restaurants. The Guadalquivir River runs through the city.
We found Seville to be an incredibly photogenic city and took many more photos
than we usually do on a weekend break!
Transport
Seville is a very walkable city. You have no choice in the Barrio Santa Cruz area because most of it is pedestrianised, with streets too narrow for traffic. Apart from the bus from the airport, we didn't use transport at all. As at 2007 they are in the process of building a metro system, expected to be complete soon.
The Airport Bus costs just €2 to Puerta de Jerez with a few stops along the way and takes about 20-30 minutes depending on traffic. On the weekend we used it, we found this bus service to be extremely unreliable. On the way from the airport we had to wait an hour although it was meant to run every 30 minutes. It was even worse on the way back. We arrived just after 1.30pm and there was a long queue so we could tell that the 1.30pm bus hadn't been. The 1.45pm bus didn't come, or the 2.15pm one. People were understandably getting very irritated until the bus finally arrived at 2.25pm. This is the first bad experience we've ever had of an airport bus and it is very frustrating. A slight delay is acceptable because of traffic but there is just no excuse for delays of around an hour and this could cause people to miss flights. Hopefully this was just a one-off, but we would recommend that you give yourself plenty time if using the bus, in case of delays.

Accommodation

Apartamentos Murillos, Seville
We stayed at the Apartamentos Murillos when we were in Seville. They are in a perfect location, on a narrow street in the Barrio Santa Cruz, walkable to everywhere and only 5 minutes walk from the Cathedral and Alcazar. We had a very nice modern, clean apartment with a nice comfortable lounge area, kitchen facilities including full size fridge and microwave, small bedroom (note: some of their double rooms are actually just two twin beds stuck together, but with individual sheets on each bed - if you want a double bed make sure you're given one when you check in) and bathroom. Our room was a one bedroom apartment, but they also have two bedroom apartments which would be idea for families. The apartment block is just round the corner from the Hotel Murillo where we had to go for breakfast. It was a cold breakfast buffet, with fruit, yoghurt, cereal, rolls, toast, croissants, cheese, ham, etc and we thought it was good value at just €5.10 per person. Visit Apartamentos Murillos website . If you book a room at Apartamentos Murillos after reading this review, we'd appreciate if you'd let them know that you found them on TravelJimmy.com - thanks! Click here to make a reservation at Aparatamentos Murillos.
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Pretty
Seville street with Hosteria del Laurel |
Apartamentos
Murillos bedroom |
Apartamentos Murillos
lounge area |
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Hotel
Murillo |
Seville Cathedral & Giralda
Bell Tower |
Giralda Bell Tower
night view |
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Plaza
Virgen de los Reyes |
Plaza Virgen de
los Reyes |
Seville Bullring |
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Avenida
de la Constitucion |
Flamenco
Show at Casa de la Memoria |
Gaudalquivir
River looking over to Triana |
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Semanta
Santa Procession |
Semanta
Santa Procession |
Another
impressive Seville building |
Things to see and do in Seville
A must see is the incredible Seville Cathedral, the largest of all Roman Catholic cathedrals and lavishly decorated with sparkling gold and multi-coloured stained glass windows. It also contains the tomb of Christopher Columbus. Climb up the 35 floors of the Giralda bell tower for great views over the city. There aren't steps, apart from a few as you enter the bell tower, just a winding ramp with several places to stop for a breather and enjoy the views along the way. Opening hours are Monday-Saturday 11am- 5pm, Sundays 2.30pm - 6pm. Entry is €7.50* - well worth it.
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Seville
Cathedral |
Stained
Glass Window at Seville Cathedral |
Seville Cathedral |
Seville
Church |
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Royal
Acazar |
Gardens
at Royal Alcazar |
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Another impressive
building |
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Seville Cathedral
from side street |
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Seville Church |
Seville orange trees |
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above to open larger ones in new window |
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Colourful side street
leading to Cathedral |
Seville narrow street |
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Just opposite the Cathedral is the Royal Alcazar,
the Palace which is the residence of Juán Carlos 1, King of Spain,
when he visits Seville. There is some interesting Moorish, Gothic and Islamic
architecture, fancy ceilings and beautiful gardens and courtyards. Entry
is €7*. Opening hours: Tuesday to Saturday
9.30am to 5pm, Sundays and holidays: from 9.30am to 1.30pm, closed Mondays.
We would recommend the Flamenco show at Casa de la
Memoria,
Calle Ximenez de Encisco (a narrow pedestrianised street in Barrio
Santa Cruz just north east of the Alcazar). The show lasts for
an hour and the one we went to started with a guitarist and singer who
are joined later in the show by a male and a female dancer. Different
artists perform on different days, but we would imagine the standard
would be good every night. We went on a Saturday and the performers
were Vicente Gelo (a Flamenco singer with a very strong voice and
a very emotive style), Juan Campallo (an impressive Flamenco guitarist)
and Marta Arias and Juan Carlos Cardoso (excellent Flamenco dancers).
It is a very passionate performance and excellent value at just €13*.
It is a small, intimate setting so make sure you buy your tickets
early in the day or the day before, as they usually sell out. Also,
make sure you turn up at least half an hour before the performance
starts
to get a good seat.
If you are going to be in Seville in April you may be lucky enough to experience Semanta Santa (Holy Week), with its many religious processions and Feria de Abril festival two weeks later, when the city becomes one big party of food, drink and flamenco. Note that rooms can be hard to find at this time and prices increased.
There is a bullring in Seville, where you can go and see a bullfight if there's one on when you're there, or take a tour and visit the bullfighting museum. It's an impressive building, even from the outside.
Bars and Restaurants in Seville
There is a huge selection of places to eat and drink in Seville. In the Barrio Santa Cruz area you can hardly turn a corner without seeing a tapas bar or restaurant. The other popular place is across the river where Calle Betis has a lot of bars and a few restaurants. Please note however that Calle Betis does not get going till later in the evening - some of the restaurants and bars don't even open till after 9pm.
When we were researching Seville before our trip, we read many glowing reviews of the italian restaurant Pizzeria San Marco with several branches in the city. Meson del Moro, built in an old Arab bathhouse, was close to our hotel so we ate there the first night. What a huge disappointment it proved to be. We just ordered two pasta dishes and some garlic bread. The bread looked disgusting but tasted OK, but the pasta was incredibly tasteless and one dish was luke warm so we had to send it back to be heated up. We usually order a pizza and a pasta - maybe the pizzas were better. The main area of the restaurant looks very nice but if it is full you will be sent to a bright room upstairs which lacks the atmosphere of the downstairs area. That wouldn't have bothered us if the food had been good. Huge letdown.
We had a better meal at Antigua Taberna, Los Escobas in Centro. The scrambled eggs with prawns , mushroom and spring onions was delicious and the veal steak tender and served with a nice selection of vegetables and potatoes.
A nice bar to have a drink is the popular T de Triana Cafe Bar on Calle Betis 20. You can sit inside or out. The tapas was very nice, especially the tender chicken with bacon and cheese ( €3 per portion*) and they have a very good selection.
Also on Calle Betis Mama
Mia has
nice Pizza Diavola (with mozzarella, tomato, garlic & chilli) and
reasonable prices.
Calle Mateus Gago is
a street with several popular tapas bar very near the Cathedral. We
had a nice glass of Sangria and some tapas at Alcazaba.
A great place to people watch too! Bodego Belmonte is
best avoided if you want to get served - it was quiet when we went in but
one member of staff was looking at his friend's laptop and the other chatting
to a friend. We waited for a while, but finally gave up and went across
the road to Patanchon where the staff were friendly
and the beers cold! Bodego Santa Cruz ,
just round the corner on Calle Rodrigo Caro is a very popular place, always
busy.
Some useful sites about Seville:
Explore Seville -
Lots of useful information about Seville here
Time Out
Seville -
Lots of stuff about Seville, including shopping, restaurants and bars
and tourist information
Trip
Advisor - Reviews from other travellers and a useful forum
Hotels in Seville - Book hotels in Seville, read travellers reviews of those hotels and earn rewards worth 5% of your booking to use against other reservations.
*Note: Prices quoted above were accurate in 2007